PDA

View Full Version : Help with cyno



Shrtwrec20
06-30-2011, 08:55 PM
Hi guys. Having a lot of trouble with this stuff. It kicked of many months ago and doesn't appear to be getting any better no matter what I try. here is a rock I manually cleaned yesterday, then a little sand got sprinkled on it while I was in there, and today it's covered already >:-(
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f251/shrtwrec20/ba7d2f62.jpg

And this which is on one of my power heads looks to be different again. It was a deep purple on the outside and white on the inside. It's pretty thick and and has a slimey jelly like feel to it :P
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f251/shrtwrec20/849672ab.jpg

and here's my little mate the urchin carrying it around
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f251/shrtwrec20/c95f9a82.jpg

I'm going for a trip to my LFS in the morning. I'm considering some cheato? But i'm not to informed on the stuff tbh. Will it be ok im a sump? What kind of light will I need for it? And what do people mean by "prune" it?

I know these may be silly questions to some of you but consider me thick as poop xD

reefergeek
06-30-2011, 09:15 PM
Oh nice, get some red slime remover that will cap it for you buddy
look on flebay its around £17
kev

ejit
07-01-2011, 12:36 AM
yup red slime remover cleaned my tank in four days.you do a 25%
water change on day three after treatment so make sure you have plenty
of water mixed up.

cl0wn
07-01-2011, 06:54 AM
i just used to tear it out manually, get the big bits by hand, blast the samll bits with a turkey baster, and scoop all the bits out with a net. yours looks thick and nasty.

for lighting the cheato, have a look on ebay for SAD light bulbs, will just fit into a bayonet fitting. the cheato forms a clump like the hair in Brian May's plug hole, to "prune" it, simply remove the excess by pulling it out of the main clump. then advertise it on here and someone will send you a SAE for your excess, or bin it.

Macca
07-01-2011, 07:53 AM
more flow, less light and less feeding. Look in our article section there are loads of great info in there. Is the red slime remover an oxidiser?

ejit
07-03-2011, 02:57 PM
not sure???
but have heard that it can be your RO water quality
that can cause this too.since doing the zeo method
I just up dose levels for a week if red slime or cyano appears.

Shrtwrec20
07-03-2011, 05:26 PM
Ok. Maybe I will try get a tds meter. I only change my filters a couple months ago but would be nice to know for sure. Oh, and what exactly is a zeo method?

Thanks

ejit
07-03-2011, 06:35 PM
its nutrient control(unls) using a method from some smart germans lol
it controls all the different levels in your tank so that the only thing
in your water is the nutrients your corals need.when you start it you
usally only need 5% water changes,no more phosphate reactor needed.
also I very rarely need to dose as the levels you need to keep are low,
dkh 6-7 , mag 1250-1300, cal 410-430, the weekly water change
takes care of my levels.I started using coral snow and zeobak to remove
the cyano algae then when I worked it out it wasnt going to cost me
much more to run the full method.its costing me slightly less than what
I was spending on rowa.since starting I have to say I have seen the water
looking so much clearer and the levels have dropped a lot.you can over complicate it
but the basic needs are, zeolites(make the other chemicals work better),zeobak,
zeostart,zeofood and coral snow.my nitrate had spiked
at 50 with the salifert kit,its now at 2 and my phos is undetectable with the deltec tester.
go to youtube and serch zeovit and you will see what SPS looks like with the method.

clear as mud eh lmao

Shrtwrec20
07-04-2011, 04:19 AM
Haha. Mud indeed :) when I get home I'll take a look on the pc. Not so easy on the iPhone.

Thanks for the input

Oh and my SAD light bulb turned up yesterday so I'll be needing some cheato if anyone can help me out?

Thanks again

r60sgr
07-04-2011, 06:26 AM
[QUOTE=Macca;230452]more flow, less light and less feeding.

That's says all for me, don't use removal without understanding how it got so bad. Usually combinations of the above. Battled it for a while and mastered it by the 3 points Macca makes. Stewart

reefergeek
07-04-2011, 07:04 AM
Not to sure about the flow part, I have some right under 22000lph flow on a rock so wouldn't think it needs more flow

Shrtwrec20
07-04-2011, 04:30 PM
I feed 1 cube of frozen food a day, my lights come on at 11 and go off at 8, and it's on the powerheads aswell. How much more flow is needed xD

r60sgr
07-04-2011, 08:24 PM
Flow needs to be upwards of 40x volume with some powerheads waved where possible to stop detritus settling. If flow is constant you can still have dead spots. I feed frozen every second day cause I found it helped, mine was worst when feeding frozen every day. Are you rinsing the frozen food in RO water before puting into aquarium? (if not that won't be helping). The best scavenger for eating the cyano was a pincushion urchin and I think you said you have one. Stewart

PS I'd cut the lighting back too to about 6 hours and when improves you can build light time back up if you want.

Shrtwrec20
07-08-2011, 05:59 PM
Little update. After a week of using brightwell aquatics liquid supplements instead of the usual tropic marin powder stuff I had, I have noticed a considerable difference. I took a sample to my LFS an had it checked for EVERYTHING lol. All reading good except phosphates were a little high, but only a little. I decided it was time to replace my old tired tmc v2 800 skimmer as tbh it's always been pants. They had just got a set of bubble-magus skimmers in so I decided I would give one of them a go. I really can't believe the amount of bubbles it produces. At least 500 times more than my old one ever did. Let's hope it's futures long and prosperous xD.

Shrtwrec20
07-08-2011, 06:00 PM
Oh and the cyno appears to be retreating also. Hopefully I will get most out when I do my water change tomorrow ;)