View Full Version : Jays Custom SeaBray Reef Build.
Hey all, I thought that I would start my Reef tank build here.
I have been keeping fish now for about 20 years, started off on the usual gold fish tank which was kept for a year or so before moving onto tropical.
I started with a 2 foot planted tank which contained mollies, sword tails and guppies, this tanks was kept for a number of years before being transfered into a larger 3 foot tank. Around about the same sort of time I also started another 3 foot tank that contained Discus, Cardinal Tetra's and Neon Tetra's, that tank was my pride and joy http://www.essexreefclub.org.uk/phpbb/images/smilies/smile.gif
These two tanks were kept right up until I my girlfriend (now wife) decided to move in together and she became pregnant with our :shocking first child, that was nearly five years ago now!!! http://www.essexreefclub.org.uk/phpbb/images/smilies/shocking.gif
That brings me upto date and onto my next tank which is going to be a Reef Tank!!! http://www.essexreefclub.org.uk/phpbb/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp199/rambo1066/marine.jpg
I have just picked this tank up, a local lady was selling it and has had it up for sale for quite some time as she wanted £450 for it. I think in the end she was fed up with it taking up space in her living room and just wanted rid of it as she let me have it for £50!!!! http://www.essexreefclub.org.uk/phpbb/images/smilies/biggrin.gif That was a good deal for a 3 foot custom build Seabray tank that is only nine months old!!! http://www.essexreefclub.org.uk/phpbb/images/smilies/biggrin.gif I must admit to feeling a little guilty for paying so little for it.
r60sgr
05-30-2011, 11:01 AM
Welcome Jay, now the patience needs to kick in. Read all you can from the techy pages on here and ask away. You'll get all the advice you need. Big difference from reef and the fish you've kept up to now (that's the route we all took) so minimise mistakes, and the cost that brings, by seeking help. Stewart
bullock
05-30-2011, 11:26 AM
ill take it for £100 ,,, lol welcome on board jay
Welcome Jay, now the patience needs to kick in. Read all you can from the techy pages on here and ask away. You'll get all the advice you need. Big difference from reef and the fish you've kept up to now (that's the route we all took) so minimise mistakes, and the cost that brings, by seeking help. Stewart
Hi Stewart, thanks very much for the very sound advice that you have given, it is very much appreciated.
I will read all that I can before making any decisions in going forward.
ill take it for £100 ,,, lol welcome on board jay
Hey Bullock, no problems mate, I'll keep you in mind when I upgrade next year....lol
Thanks for the warm welcome.
The overflow weir has now been put into the tank, just need to give the silicon 48 hours to set before getting it wet. http://www.essexreefclub.org.uk/phpbb/images/smilies/smile.gif
I also need to add a weir comb.
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp199/rambo1066/weir.jpg
Most of my plumbing also arrived today so I can really start to get things sorted out now. http://www.essexreefclub.org.uk/phpbb/images/smilies/grin.gif http://www.essexreefclub.org.uk/phpbb/images/smilies/grin.gif http://www.essexreefclub.org.uk/phpbb/images/smilies/grin.gif
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp199/rambo1066/plumbing.jpg
I really need to give the tank a good clean now, what is the best thing to remove all of the hard water deposits that are left from the previous owner using as a freshwater tank??? I have tried cleaning with water but when tank drys the deposits reappear. http://www.essexreefclub.org.uk/phpbb/images/smilies/cry.gif Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
Jay
r60sgr
05-30-2011, 03:07 PM
In find vinegar removes most things, try with a sturdy cloth but non abrasive to avoid scratches. Vinegar is good particularly when you come to do maintenance on marine kit. A good overnight soak saves hours scrubbing. Stewart
Marine Life Uk
05-30-2011, 04:30 PM
looks like a good start there mate and a nice looking tank
While waiting for the solvent weld to cure I was toying around with places to put the heater, does anybody forsee any problems with it going in the overflow box with the durso?
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp199/rambo1066/heater.jpg
There is no contact with any of the plastic parts and the heater seems to get good water circulation, any comments would be greatly appreciated.
looks like a good start there mate and a nice looking tank
Hello mate, thanks very much.
In find vinegar removes most things, try with a sturdy cloth but non abrasive to avoid scratches. Vinegar is good particularly when you come to do maintenance on marine kit. A good overnight soak saves hours scrubbing. Stewart
Hey Stewart, thanks again for the good advice, I will get some and try that tomorrow.
Jay
r60sgr
05-30-2011, 09:21 PM
[QUOTE=Jay;227587]While waiting for the solvent weld to cure I was toying around with places to put the heater, does anybody forsee any problems with it going in the overflow box with the durso?
The only problem I see is if your return pump stops for any reason, then you're not heating your tank water due to circulation stopping. Stewart
Marine Life Uk
05-30-2011, 09:27 PM
I wouldnt put it in the weir box tbh.
Either the first or return section of the sump but tbh it would probably be ok in there but I wouldnt. If the return stops is usually due to power failure which means the heater would be off anyway, most have the heaters in the sump where you can see them to keep a check on them.
reefergeek
05-30-2011, 09:30 PM
A big no no im afraid keep it to the sump and i would use a heater controller then its safeguarded against the stat sticking
If the return pump should fail with no power cut the weir could empty leaving an heater not in water overheating and cracking
Thanks for the replies guys, you raise some very good concerns with placing the heater in the weir. Make good sense to leave it in the sump, thanks again guys.
Jay
Hi, got the white vinegar and will be trying that out later on (thanks for the help http://www.essexreefclub.org.uk/phpbb/images/smilies/grin.gif ).
I have also started work on the plumbing http://www.essexreefclub.org.uk/phpbb/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp199/rambo1066/plumbing001.jpg
This is a pic of the main drain line that comes from the Durso (pics to come later), the parts just need to be placed together but I am waiting for the solvent weld to set.
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp199/rambo1066/plumbing002.jpg
This pic shows the individual components assembled, I thought I would take pics as I go because I know that you all love loads of pics on here!!! plus it gives me a break from breathing in the fumes of that solvent weld.
I am hoping to get all of the drain plumbing done today so that I can get the tank wet http://www.essexreefclub.org.uk/phpbb/images/smilies/grin.gif http://www.essexreefclub.org.uk/phpbb/images/smilies/grin.gif http://www.essexreefclub.org.uk/phpbb/images/smilies/grin.gif and leave it running over the weekend to check for leaks (fingers crossed) I will try and post more pics later on.
Jay
http://www.ultimatereef.co.uk/forums/images/misc/progress.gif
Hi all, today saw the tank getting wet for a leak test http://www.essexreefclub.org.uk/phpbb/images/smilies/biggrin.gif , whilst filling the tank with a hosepipe I was very surprised to see that my overflow weir was completly water tight and did not contain a single drop of water until the water level flowed over the top (I have never been that lucky first time using silicon, there is usually always a leak).
As the sump was filling up I was looking like crazy for leaking pipes and bulkheads but did not seem to find any!!! I started to worry as things were going to well.
I fired up the return pump and sat and watched for about 20 minutes, I noticed a single joint with a drip every 2 - 3 seconds so that was not to bad. http://www.essexreefclub.org.uk/phpbb/images/smilies/smile.gif I patched the leak and wrapped the pipe in plumbing tape (is this the correct way to to it?).
Since repairing the leak all seems to be going well (touches wood!!!) and I will leave it running over night just to make sure, I will then empty and give a very good clean with RO water and white vinegar before filling for the final time with RO water http://www.essexreefclub.org.uk/phpbb/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
As promised yesterday here are a few more pics.
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp199/rambo1066/durso.jpg
Here is the Durso Standpipe finally in place, I was very impressed with how quiet these things are. http://www.essexreefclub.org.uk/phpbb/images/smilies/smile.gif
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp199/rambo1066/pipework.jpg
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp199/rambo1066/pipework4.jpg
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp199/rambo1066/pipework2.jpg
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp199/rambo1066/pipework3-1.jpg
Heres just a few pics of the pipework and connectors under the tank.
cl0wn
05-31-2011, 06:41 PM
very nice work so far! liking the 50 quid tank! another reason for the heater in the sump is the water level in the overflow may fluctuate. if the heater is exposed, bang!
r60sgr
05-31-2011, 07:13 PM
Good job bud. Stewart
reefergeek
05-31-2011, 08:17 PM
The durso looks to low, when you get the hole drilled in the top should you put airline in or a tap the salt will quickly block the hole draining then refilling the weir every few seconds.
The pipe has got a fair few bends all will slow the flow down from the tank, the straighter the better for these things
Marine Life Uk
05-31-2011, 08:24 PM
I agree with the above too many bends cant see why you done it this way to be honest, should have come out the couplin with a 90 then the valve then a T then straight in the tank as you have got already, not sure why you have the other part running to the return end either but maybe something Im missing there.
Not to say it wont work but it will slow the flow and what happens if the trap that has been formed fills up with muck and blocks
reefergeek
05-31-2011, 08:31 PM
It looks like the durso can feed either end of the sump, not sure why though as all the crud would go straight back to the return pump, theres some strange looking fittings there, the threaded fittings can be a prat for leaking which is why nearly all use the solvent weld ones
Marine Life Uk
05-31-2011, 08:33 PM
I see youve also adapted to normal waste pipe some would say this a no no but for me its never been proven that chemicals can leach. Not to say that I use it though as TBH I dont
Anyway dont think Im being critical as im not just pointing out potential problems
reefergeek
05-31-2011, 08:36 PM
Not just that but will it weld correctly to the upvc fittings, I would of moved the sumo as far over to the lest under the drain from the tank, straight fitting with ballvalve in to the sump no bends or feeding both ends then return pump opposite side keep it simple
I agree with the above too many bends cant see why you done it this way to be honest, should have come out the couplin with a 90 then the valve then a T then straight in the tank as you have got already, not sure why you have the other part running to the return end either but maybe something Im missing there.
Not to say it wont work but it will slow the flow and what happens if the trap that has been formed fills up with muck and blocks
Hello mate, thanks for the reply, the reason for all the bends was that I read on another forum that producing a trap like that would slow the drain rate of the water a little and help quieten the sloshing sound of the water entering the sump. You do have a very good point on the trap filling with muck though (thanks for pointing out, did not think of that.)
As for the drain feeding both ends of the sump, I was toying around with having my return pump in middle section and a fuge at the other end of the sump hence the ball valve as I did not want a fast flow through the fuge. I had not made up my mind on this yet so decided to include the pipework anyway so that if I did decide on taking this route all the fittings would be in place and if I decided not the I would have simply kept the second ball valve closed. What do you think?
Jay
It looks like the durso can feed either end of the sump, not sure why though as all the crud would go straight back to the return pump, theres some strange looking fittings there, the threaded fittings can be a prat for leaking which is why nearly all use the solvent weld ones
Hello mate, thanks for the reply, are you refering to the coupler fitting right below the bulkhead?
Jay
I see youve also adapted to normal waste pipe some would say this a no no but for me its never been proven that chemicals can leach. Not to say that I use it though as TBH I dont
Anyway dont think Im being critical as im not just pointing out potential problems
Hello mate, thanks for the reply, no critism was taken I really appreciate everybody who has alot more experience then myself pointing out potential problems with my setup so that I can correct them in the planning stages and hopefully have a better running system.
Jay
reefergeek
06-01-2011, 07:59 AM
Yes buddy the fittings if they are solvent welded to the upvc keep an eye out, and as for making it quiet mine has a 50mm durso straight in to the sump no bends and has a 12mm valve in the durso to control the airflow and its near as hell to silent. The duso can only take the water out of the tank that the pump puts back in so to make it quieter you could divert the flow from the pump back to the start of the sump.
Did a mates tank the other month and used a 25mm durso and using a 3500lph pump its just on the verge of been a little noisy the pump would of been better at 2900 or 3000lph for that set up
Ball valves are not usually used on durso setups depending on pipe size if something gets stuck in the valve nothing stopping the tank from overflowing, the will pump shoving all the sump volume back in to the tank, I only put one on mine as its 50mm pipe
I feel all the bends will cause more trouble and the salt creep will get past the plumbers tape no doubt about it
kev
Hi guys, after reading all of your replies and taking it all onboard I have rearranged my pipework. As recommended the keep it simple route is the best way to go, thanks guys its much appreciated.
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp199/rambo1066/newpipework.jpg
I also had a nice surprise when I got home from work, the postman delivered my Tunze 6055's
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp199/rambo1066/6055.jpg
These should work well with my setup.
Jay
The durso looks to low, when you get the hole drilled in the top should you put airline in or a tap the salt will quickly block the hole draining then refilling the weir every few seconds.
The pipe has got a fair few bends all will slow the flow down from the tank, the straighter the better for these things
Hello mate, the angle of the pic does make it look low, the top of the Durso is about 6.5 inches above the water level, how much higher do you recommend I go?
Jay
very nice work so far! liking the 50 quid tank! another reason for the heater in the sump is the water level in the overflow may fluctuate. if the heater is exposed, bang!
Hello mate, thanks very much.
Jay
reefergeek
06-01-2011, 06:26 PM
6.5" thats fine buddy mines around 4-5" and still gets blocked now and again, Plumbing looks a lot better are you using a filter sock there around £9 go for a nylon one if you are and then you can put the drain pipe deep down in the sump
kev
Hi, just a quick update, my salt and Deltec APF600 turned up yesterday http://www.essexreefclub.org.uk/phpbb/images/smilies/grin.gif
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp199/rambo1066/deltec-1.jpg
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