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reeves2k2
08-28-2008, 12:33 PM
As i have my tank drained down waiting for my overflow to cure i think now would be the right time to remove and replace the brace bar

as you can see its massive ugly and pi***n me off what would be the best way to go about this as i dont want plastic filling all in the tank as its stocked and could harm fish etc

any tips on removing and best way to re-brace would be appreciated

http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/7594/28082008001ga5.jpg

http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/2505/28082008002eo8.jpg

http://img83.imageshack.us/img83/2382/28082008003dg2.jpg

Gaters
08-28-2008, 01:09 PM
Firstly don't remove the brace bar until you have the new one(s) in place!:eek::eek::eek:

reeves2k2
08-28-2008, 02:01 PM
what would be the best way to go about re-bracing it though thats the bit im stuck on i was going to whip it out before because the tank is only half full at the mo

Buster
08-28-2008, 02:01 PM
Firstly don't remove the brace bar until you have the new one(s) in place!:eek::eek::eek:


Top Tip.! Been there done that.:mad:

reeves2k2
08-28-2008, 02:35 PM
anyone have any ideas????

MR Teee
08-28-2008, 03:14 PM
Is all that black stuff plastic? sat infront of the glass? how is it bonded?

reeves2k2
08-28-2008, 04:35 PM
yeah its all a plastic sort of trim i think its siliconed in place i dont fancy removing it all though

MR Teee
08-28-2008, 04:59 PM
I was thinking more around where the brace bar is.

Remove 4 " of the plastic, stick a piece of 4" long 2" wide glass to the back of the tank and the front. Place a 4" wide piece between them and silicone in.

Use some sort of brace to replace the black plastic one whilst you are fitting the glass and waiting for the silicone to cure.

reeves2k2
08-28-2008, 05:31 PM
yeah i was going to do it today but got too impatient and filled the tank again will do it on the nect water change

i dont need to hack away the plastic because i could do the glass brace just under it and my water level when full would just be below that

my only concern when i do this is the silicone & glass going to be sufficient to support the tank without it bursting and ripping the silicone away presumable a full tank would want to "bow out" thus pulling the silicone away

MR Teee
08-28-2008, 05:37 PM
Its how most tanks are braced, my 5'er was the same, and that held fine.

reeves2k2
08-28-2008, 05:54 PM
good nice to hear put my mind at rest is there any particular thickness of glass that would be better or just the standard stuff

MR Teee
08-28-2008, 05:56 PM
Mine was the same as the tank 10mm.

sinaarrgghh
08-28-2008, 10:28 PM
Is that by any chance a rio 125 tank? If so I removed it from the ex's tank before stocking by just cutting the ****** off. Her tanks been filled and running for nearly a year now with no problems and a bloody big 150w MH thats gripped onto the back of the tank so the glass has no problem. Never understood why juwel put it there to be honest. There was no glass underneath mind so I figured it was not load bearing. If yours is different ignore this whole post!

cl0wn
08-29-2008, 12:54 AM
no it's a fluval roma 200.

reeves2k2
08-29-2008, 02:10 AM
Fluval mate
might give hagen another call to see if it will be a problem if i just remove it

its not a massive prob to re-brace it just means i would have to do 2

just wondered if there were ppl with a different approach

tbf though both jewel and hagen's tanks look very similar right across the board in both shape and design so may not be all too different

moorish
08-29-2008, 10:43 AM
just use some 10mm glass to replace the original one,put the new one or two in place & leave for few days to set then remove the original one.derek

reeves2k2
08-29-2008, 10:46 AM
yeah thats the sensible one which ill be doing on the next water change